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Mains · Italian

Mushroom Risotto with Porcini

Fresh mushrooms browned hard on their own, porcini soaking liquid in the stock, and a squeeze of lemon at the end.

Prep
15 min
Cook
40 min
Total
55 min
Serves
4

Added . Suitable for: Vegetarian, Gluten-free.

Illustration of mushroom risotto

Why this version

  • Browning the fresh mushrooms in batches before the rice goes in is what makes this taste of mushroom rather than of stock.
  • A small handful of dried porcini, with its strained soaking water, adds depth that more fresh mushrooms could not.
  • A tablespoon of lemon juice with the butter and cheese lifts the richness; without it, tasters called it heavy.

Ingredients

Servings
4 servings
Units
  • 15 g dried porcini
  • 1.2 litres vegetable stock, hot
  • 500 g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 40 g unsalted butter, divided
  • 2 shallots, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 tsp thyme leaves
  • 320 g carnaroli or arborio rice
  • 120 ml dry white wine
  • 60 g parmesan or vegetarian hard cheese, finely grated
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice

Method

  1. Soak the porcini in 250 ml of just-boiled water for 20 minutes. Lift them out, squeeze and chop them. Strain the soaking liquid through a paper towel into the stock, leaving the grit behind, and keep the stock warm over low heat.

  2. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large, wide pan over high heat and add half the fresh mushrooms. Leave them for 3 minutes, then stir and cook for 2–3 minutes more, until well browned. Season, tip onto a plate and repeat with another 1 tbsp oil and the rest.

  3. In the same pan over medium heat, warm the last of the oil with 15 g of the butter. Add the shallots and a pinch of salt and cook for 4 minutes until soft. Add the garlic, porcini and thyme and stir for 1 minute.

  4. Add the rice and stir for 2 minutes, until the edges of the grains turn translucent. Pour in the wine and stir until it is absorbed.

  5. Add the stock a ladle (about 150 ml) at a time, stirring often and adding more each time the pan is nearly dry. After 16–18 minutes the rice should be tender with a slight bite at the centre. Stir in two-thirds of the browned mushrooms for the last 5 minutes.

  6. Off the heat, add the remaining butter, the cheese and lemon juice and beat hard for 30 seconds. Add a final splash of stock so the risotto flows slowly when you tilt the pan, then cover and leave for 2 minutes. Serve topped with the remaining mushrooms.

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What we tested

  • Oven-baked risotto, covered, 180°C for 25 minutes: convenient, but gluey and with none of the toasted mushroom flavour.
  • Arborio and carnaroli side by side: carnaroli held its shape a little better, but both were very good.
  • Without porcini: pleasant but thin. The porcini earn their place.

Keeping

Risotto is best eaten straight away. Leftovers make good fried rice cakes the next day.

Swaps and notes

Traditional parmesan is made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian hard cheese if that matters to you.

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